Drivers Diary -A treasure trove of Interesting tales from across the country and beyond

A driver always has something interesting to share,having traveled across the length and breath of the country on account of their work.On my trip to Agra from Delhi, I happened to meet one such interesting driver and his travel diary had a plethora of interesting stories, which I am delighted to share them with you all

Road Trip to Pakistan
I never thought an Indian vehicle could drive through Lahore and Karachi and small villages in the middle. But driverji tells us its very much possible, he has driven through Pakistan over 3 times with tourists and has completely enjoyed being in that country.
You need to take your visa from Delhi, and then your car and driver gets a green card, which entitles him to drive through the country. You enter Pakistan via the Attari border near Amristar.The time for such exits is between 10- 11 in the morning. There are 3 customs checks that happen, and then you drive in and reach Lahore, The country side is beautiful. There are similar kind of hotels lik India. Scotters, bikes and cycles are not allowed in Pakistan. It’s a dictorial country, women have the worst leaving conditions. He narrates many instances where women ask people like him and other drivers to take them to Delhi the bijli ka shehar.
He said that the country is pretty much safe, there is no reason too worry about being attacked by anyone, but as every country has good and bad people, if you happen to meet one bad cop or bad person, who happens to harras you, you would consider it as a bad country. He says hiring a innova from a reputed company for 7 days would be enough to cover Pakistan. The damages would be approx 25,000( only travel)


Road Trips
Driverji has been working for over 20 years and has traveled to almost all parts of India, and the neighboring countries, including Nepal, Pakistan and China

Three places you must never visit on a roadtrip( by Driverji)

Kashmir: He said that in Kashmir people are extremely violent. He has had many instances of leaving tourists at the houseboat and when he would return to pick them up, he would be told that they have already gone. Days later, it would be known that the tourist was murdered and his body would be found floating on the water. The house boat owners, or tourists just want to make instant money

Nepal:Nepal is quite a notorious country. The minute they see an Indian number plate on the car, they will break the headlights, damage the car, and if the tourists are inside, would try to steal their goods, or even threaten them or hurt them with weapons

Negro village in Gujarat : Interestingly, I have never heard of this place although I have been to Gir. This is in Sasan Gir, a village full of Negros. Legend has it that the Nawab of Junagarh, brought them as slaves to work for them, another story says that they descended from the earlier times, when the Arab traders brought Abbisynian slaves many many generations ago. However this guys speak gujarati, eat the local food, etc but they look like negros, Africans.
This guys are extremely violent, and because of their poor living conditions can steal anything from you including your clothes


Kokila Van
On the highway , you would pass through an exit for Kokila Van. The driverji smiled and asked me, if I knew what this place was. I smiled replied, is it a village made by Ambani brothers for their mother.
Kokila van is basically a shani vanish place. Basically the story goes that the wife of shani was talking to him, and he didn’t pay attention, so she told him, that whatever you will look at, will get destroyed, that’s why they say ke shani ka graha ho to bhari hota hai.

So if you want to get away from this shani graha, u need to visit the place with your mothers brother on a Saturday, or if u come alone u have to come 7 times. Interesting. Lot of people come here every Friday night



Incentive programs for Drivers by Hotels
Growing up in the cites, we have heard about the various marketing schemes by companies to entice customers to buy their products or even incentive program by companies for their employees, but I had never heard of incentive programs for tourist drivers. Interestingly every hotel ranging from a roadside Dhabba to a five star hotel on the Delhi Agra highway has an incentive program for the driver. They are in various forms

Food commission on Dhabhas- We happened to stop by at a nice Dhabha for lunch. The parathas were scrumptious, and as a gesture to thank my driver for bringing me to this nice place, I insisted he shared the table with me, he was reluctant but i insisted. He had some normal sabji and couple of rotis and I was happy with my one paratha. When the bill came I was shocked to see Rs 300, this was ridiculous, coz even if I went to a udupi restaurant in Mumbai,I would end up paying maximum 150- 200 bucks. I felt cheated, so although I went to the counter and paid the money, I told the owner, that I knew he was cheating me by over charging me. When we sat back in the car, my honest driver returned me some money. I enquired and he said, that he charged you a tourist tariff, and in such cases they give money to the driver, as an incentive to bring tourists to his dhabba. That’s how the stories of this incentive program came out. Whenever drivers stop by at a dhabba, the driver is given free food, or money, and sometimes both. Then he clearly pointed out, the reason he didn’t want to share the table with me, coz anyways his food would have been taken care off. The dhabba owners address the drivers as Ustadji.


Prizes on the number of visits with tourists at the hotel
Some of the more high profile hotels, give the driver free food, regardless of the fact that the travelers dine or not at the hotel. They make an entry of the car no and the driver in their register. So once the car has come 4 times its get a x gift, its come 6 times it gets an x gift. They also distribute free blankets or bags during diwali


Commission on inhouse guests
Most of the good hotels including the Taj, oberoi etc in Agra, give the driver a 300rs allowance on bringing a guest to their hotel, they also give him free food and accommodation

Free accommodation and nominal family accommodation charges for driver
Some of the good hotels like Jaypee palace, if informed earlier, give the driver a room for him and his family at a nominal rate of 200 bucks. He says that the room is as good as the 7000 rupee room we stay in, without the amenities like AC and fridge etc. They also give free food and accommodation for all the drivers who have guests at the hotel.

Anokhi ke Paratha the Indian pizza in Agra
This was the best thing that Driverji introduced me to. Anokhi a small stall, has the best the parathas in the world. He makes them in desi ghee, and they are so well made in texture, better then a thin crust pizza also. Apparently this guy owns all the land in the surrounding, it is located next to ITC in Agra. He has a small stall, but all the drivers from the hotels come to take parcels for their guests. It was the best paratha I have ever eaten, thousands times better than Partha gali in chandini Chowk

This article would be incomplete without thanking Bhuj, from whom I have inherited the wonderful quality of talking to the locals to find out about the local customs and traditions. If it hadn’t been for her, we all would have been

ON THE ROAD!

photo courtesy- Sarfaraz Merchent(Pro-photographer in the making)

Over 35 hours behind the wheel ( with more than 2 flat tyers and one tyer burst)... 3000km of India`s scenic canvas ranging from the fields, to the desert and the forests.. 4 notorious characters. Adventure, Discovery & more

The route
(Mumbai- Surat- Ahmedabad- Himant Nagar- Palanpur- Sanchor- Barmer- Jaisalmer


Day 1- The beginning ( Friday- 9 Feb 07)

In the fading winter darkness of the morning I set out on this journey with 3 of my travelmates in quest of exploring the unknown. Although this is not really the beginning as our first stop is a wedding in Surat. Hardly had we reached the toll naka near Dahisar, that one of our travel mates opened one packet of Lays chips. He had got about 20 packets of Lays as he had a distributor for the product next door to his office. I immediately commented on How gujaratis love to eat all the time, and how their journey ends and begins with food. On the way to Surat, we halted at a Reliance petrol pump, and I was very impressed to find out that they provided facilities for shower for 20 bucks, I hoped to find such petrol-pumps on our long journey to Jaisalmer, as we might end up using one.

The highway from Bombay to Surat is well made and scenic, and with the good driving and speed of our travelmate we managed to reach Surat by about 10:30 in the morning. After gulping down some scrumptious breakfast of Ghee- Khakra, Ameri Khaman, Ghatiya and Jalebi we chatted with the bride, as the other two travel mates who weren’t supposed to attend the wedding set out in the heat to find something to do in Surat.

Surat
Surat has nothing to do, It’s a very crowded city and the only thing you could probably do is go to the Kapda Bazzar. In the afternoon we go to the Bombay Market which is a huge market selling saris and dress material. Its fascinating to see the colours and the chaos. Although we are quite unsuccessful in finding a simple kurta in this market which our friend wants to wear for the wedding as he ended up coming with the wrong clothes. If you are looking for something classy and simple then Bombay Market is not the place to shop for you.

Boredom and the need to rest compels our other two travelmates to find themselves a place to rest in a dingy little guest house. One of them has to drive in the night so the sleep is definitely needed

At about 10:30p.m in the evening we are done with the wedding and after many goodbyes we are finally ready to hit the road to Jaisalmer. The four of us have never seen a desert and we are quite excited to visit one.



Day 2 – On the road to Jaisalmer – ( Sat- 10 Feb 07)

Its about 12am now and we are on our way to Ahmedabad. One of the travel mates the morning driver is already zonked for the day. One of them our navigator who has religiously studied the road route sits in the front directing our third travelmate who is driving. My head is spinning and I have this desire to drink tea. Since the journey had just began, my travel mates are still very civil to me and are adhering to all my demands and requests.

The dhaba where we stop for chai is buzzing with truck drivers and their are some of them even with their families. We all wonder how difficult life would be for them traveling all the time.

The Ahmedabad express highway is mind-blowing, after crossing ahmedabad and various queries we end up taking a shorter route through a short cut near Himmat nagar. As we drive through this small road we can see nothing but trees, we do hope to find a ghost somewhere on the way, but there is nothing accept the silence of the night.

In the morning when we reach Palanpur, we halt at a petrolpump and I am just delighted to know that we have toilet paper with us, thanks to one of our travelmates who is in the tissue paper business. Our navigator friend opens the map on the bonnet of the car again trying to read the route map. Jaisalmer is still about 400-450km away.


Its time to swap drivers, and our day driver travel mate begins his journey. From Palanpur we need to get to to Barmer via Sanchor. We take a short-cut road which turns out to be a bad idea coz the road is dug up and bad. Rajasthan raods are not as good as the Gujarat roads, that’s a striking difference between both the states

The drive is scenic with just fields on both sides, the chakdo( a special type of rickshaw, which front is made up of a bullet bike and a square block behind for people to sit inside). At about 1:00p.m we halt for some food at a Dhaba. The Dhaba is well equipped with khatiyas and small separate dinning areas under huts. The food consisting of the dal, mixed veg is extremely oily, but the parathas are nice. I am a little sad seeing the young boy who is serving us food. He must be hardly 10-15 years old and here he is earning a living for himself

On the road further we see a little bit of the desert, but it not barren, its green. All our hopes of seeing a actual desert are getting shattered, maybe the desert we imagined was just in the movies and not in real. At about 3pm we reach Jaisalmer, after a series of debate we decide to stay in the fort.

The Fort offers a variety of accommodation for the budget traveler. Our first stop is a nice hotel call Surya, but since it has squat toilets I request the other three to look for other options. We finally reach a place called Maharajas Haven or Surya Palace, and find ourselves a good room after a little bargaining for 600 bucks. The room called the dream room with a outside balcony provides a spectacular view of the golden city from the fort. This is no palace hotel, but just a small house with couple of bedrooms and baths and a restaurant at the terrace The clouds are already out and in no time it begins to pour and our dream room turns into a rainy room.

The manager- Manubhai tells us that rains are very uncommon in Rajasthan that the room is not equipped to handle the rains, he shows us another room below which is saved from the rain. Once the rain stops in the evening we set out to find a mosque for one of our mates who needs to offer his evening prayers. I am fascinated walking through the tiny lanes of the main bazzar. We stop at a saree shop to buy some sarees which one of them needs to take back home. The saree shopkeeper is friendly and tells us about the Desert Safari, advises us to go only after the rain stops, while our navigator friend ends up chatting to some one else at the Phone booth to get some information on the Safari. He also finds out that Tanot( I kept calling it Taukhat for some reason) about 200 kms away which is on the Pakistan border is also interesting place to visit. They don’t allow you to go upto the border but just near the village where there is a temple.

We all wanted to stay in a village or a desert for atleast a day, so this seemed like a interesting proposition, if we could get to stay in the village near the border

We wait for our travel mate to come back from his prayers as we sip some coffee and savour some cake at the German bakery round the corner. Our pasta fanatic friend has seen the Italian restaurant- Little Italy at the fort and we all go there for dinner. I look at a Hajam shop and enquire if I can get a oil hair massage, the guy agrees for 45 bucks but my friends think it’s a bad idea for me to get one and convince me to forget about it


The restaurant- Little Italy has a nice ambience, with table and chair seating and Indian style seating. We choose the Indian style seating and place our orders. The pasta is slightly uncooked and when we argue with the manager, he tells me this is authentic pasta, and everyone here( mainly the firangs) like it that way.

Day 3 – Jaisalmer & Desert Safari (Sunday- 11 Feb 07)

We all have a good sleep, and wake up quite late. At about 11:30 we proceed for breakfast at our hotel. It’s a nice sunny day and Savan a young boy comes to take our order. We eat as if we haven’t eaten for ages, Plates full of burjis, porridges, cereals, pakodas and toast gets wiped up in a matter of time.

Savan- The little rockstar

Savan is about 15 years old, he has been working in this hotel for about a month or so now. He is in charge of cooking as well as serving the food. He has a distinct, innocent smile on face. He is from a village close by and his father was not to keen that he studied so he dropped out of school and came here to take this job. The boy is very sweet and is more to happy to sit and chat with us every day when we go for breakfast. We ask him if there is any small village which is in a desert, where we could go and stay. He tells us about Tanot and the surrounding villages but advises us to take the Desert Safari


After a series of discussions with Manu Bhai the manager of the hotel, we finally take the safari for 550 rupees a person which would include to transport to a village near Khuri, a camel ride in the desert, accommodation under the sky with gaddis and rajai along with food. We walk around the bazzar and in to the lanes of the city to locate our other two namazi friends who have gone to the mosque to offer their prayers. I am amazed to see the small houses, all like little havelis with some carving, all of golden stones. An interesting feature to be noted is, that whenever there is a wedding in any of the house, the wedding invitation is painted on a white patch on the wall of the house. So we pass through various such invitations of weddings which have already happened from 97- 2007.
On one tiny crossroad, I come across a group of women are chatting which each other, they smile at me and the chatterbox that I am we start chatting. They tell me that its Sunday, so they are relaxed as their husbands are sleeping and they are finished their morning chores of cooking etc. My other friend is troubled by the running children around who want to look at the pictures in the camera

We do locate a mosque, but just to find out that are friends are not in that mosque so we walk further to find a mosque called Jama Masjid. At first some people think we are crazy trying to locate Jama Masjid in Jaisalmer. Anyways we finally find our friends and rush to the hotel, as we have to leave for the desert safari at 3pm.

Still much more to write... about the next 5 days.. Watch out