It was
one of those rare Sunday evenings, where I truly felt so happy. The husband and
I were in an auto rickshaw on our way to Unjha station from Patan. Amidst the
pitch dark sky, sparkling stars and the refreshing winds from the fields on
both sides of the roads, I thought to my self, that this weekend had been the
best holiday I had ever had in years. I felt like someone who had just
discovered a treasure chest. Going back to the roots of my maternal
grandparents families and my paternal grandmothers home, discovering the town
of Patan and small towns nearby was truly an enriching experience.
So here is detailed account of my trip, a bit long.
The train
to Patan
My
maternal grandparents were going to be visiting Patan and staying at one of our
relative’s house. The grandfather was keen that the husband visit`s the town.
Me on the other hand had always been excited with the concept of going to Patan
but November has been a hectic month, with travels on every weekend, so I
wasn’t particularly keen. Any ways, with some coaxing from the husband
and the lovely tales narrated by my grandmother and aunt about their train
rides to Patan, where they got onto an extremely slow train from Ahmedabad,
which also had goats and cattle for company got me excited. The husband somehow
managed to get the train tickets. Secretly, I wished he had not and we would
get an opportunity to travel in the general compartment. Our train ride was
quite un-eventful, there was nothing rustic about the experience, till we
crossed the tracks at Unjha station in the morning to get into an auto
and go to Patan almost 25 km away.
We
entered Patan city and the auto driver, not a local asked a couple of people
for our destination address, Loteshwar mandir. After scrambling through many
tiny by lanes and some fabulous houses, we finally landed at our destination.
The grandparents were overjoyed seeing us. They felt like we had fought
some big battle by reaching Patan and heaved a sigh of relief.
Our home
stay in Patan
The house
we were staying was my maternal grandmothers sister`s house and also my
paternal grandmother`s Masi`s house. The sister was no more, but her
family had renovated and maintained this ancestral home with some basic
facilities. This was in kampani pada. The house had a typical old character to
it. With a living room, kitchen and a small room in the ground floor. A small
staircase led up to the first floor which had a small covered terrace in the
middle connecting 2 rooms. One room was in the main road with small windows.
The early mornings in Patan are truly magical wonderful. People walking
through, the cleaners cleaning the road and the rabarans selling milk and
vegetables.
Some
basic facts about the architecture of Patan
Patan has
a variety of houses. Some in art décor style some with distinct Indian
carvings. More than 90% of houses have a common wall, they are mostly stuck
next to each similar to the town homes of America. The utility of space in these
houses is amazing. When you look at some of this houses, you may feel
they are really tiny but when you actually walk inside you will amazed to see a
terrace and tiny rooms and even a basement. Many of them have1 or 2
floors connected through really tiny wooden staircases
Vada-
Vada means a gated community with lots of houses.
Pada-
means an area with less houses.
Seri - means a tiny lane with just 2
houses.
Dehla
means a big open space with a door, more like a god own
Chowk-
Like a junction
Walking
tour of Patan with the grand parents
The grand
mother was super excited and over a cup of tea, she told us about the various
people who lived in various houses and vadas and insisted that she would walk
with us and show us all the houses. At the age of 86 she has a fabulous memory.
On the other hand we called up the paternal grand mother who is in Bangalore,
asking her to stay next to her ipad as we would take her through a live walking
tour of Patan.
We walk out of the kampani pada and come towards something called
Limdi chowk(4 roads). Interestingly there is a big Limda tree on the middle of
the road. My grand mother in excitement tells me that big white mansion at the
beginning of the road, was actually a Dehala( a big open space with a door) and
behind that was her Mothers maternal house. This was where she was born in a
little godown. The people of patan are really warm, as soon as we went near the
house they all came out and even offered us water and breakfast.
Kasumbia
vada-
Our next stop was Kasumbia vada, this is where my Dadi`s house was
located. This vada had some fabulous old houses. There was a huge big bungalow
owned by the Kilachands, which was quite old and had got ripped off during the
earthquake. Only the remnants of that house remained. In the tiny lanes of this
vada still stood some lovely houses owned by one of our relatives another
Kilachand. It had lovely balconies and mark of KC
Dadi`s
house
|
The main entrance of GTC house in Patan
|
As we
walked towards Dadi`s house in Patan, GTC house in the same vada, some of
the neighbors came out. Some people recollected meeting Lili ba, my grand
mother`s mother. We enquired who lived in the house and as my nana nani
conversed with the neighbors, they somehow managed to get the keys to the house
and we were able to see how it looked.
|
Carving on the main door of Dadi`s house with the crown and the Kalash |
The house
had lovely carvings outside with a distinct carving of the queen’s crown at the
entrance and kalash carving below, perhaps it was symbolic of the family, the
perfect blend of east and west.
|
The backside terrace with the symbol
GJC Gordhandhas
Jamnadas Choksey |
|
Side view of the house |
On video
call, Dadi tell us that her father has actually got this house build with
the help of one of his friends who was an architect or engineer.
|
The Grand staircase |
The house had
a grand stair case leading upstairs and the tiles from the olden time. As
I walked into that house, I tried hard to imagine how life must have been when
the entire family lived in this, I wish I could rewind into a day back then.
|
The front view of Nananji`s house from
Kampani Pada |
Nanaji`s
house
My
Nanaji`s family was a very prosperous family of the patan nath. They had a huge
business of supplying Herda from Maharashtra. So they didn’t live a lot in
patan but they had many house. 2 of their houses were located in Kusumbia vada.
One of the houses which they last owned, was huge half of the house was in
Kusumbia vada and the other on the main road of Kampana pada. This was the most
fabulous house I had ever seen. Nanaji`s cousin uncle whose name was also
Kilachand had got this house built in 1940 for his son Jayanti`s wedding. He
was known to be a very prominent personality. v
The house
had 3 floors. If you entered the house from Kusumba vada, on the
ground floor there was a small platform ootla as they call it
in gujarati, where people sat in evenings to chat with the neigbours.The door
had fabulous carvings, and design of the exterior was uniform to how it looked
on the other side of the road. There were 3 rooms on the ground floor. When you
entered there was a small open room with tiny staircase leading up, next was
the kitchen, which also had a staircase and last was the living room with a
toilet.
The Living room door opened to the other side of the road. We
climbed the first floor from the back side staircase. On the first floor was a
small covered room, with tiles pieced flooring with a lovely design.
The
next floor lead us to another room, more like a store room. When we opened the
storeroom door, it lead us to a lovely open terrace, and next to the terrace
on the other side was another huge room, where there was big old poster
bed, which belonged to our family. This room also had a tiny terrace. From this room itself we could now go down via front side stairs which lead
into the kitchen. We climbed down to the 2nd floor of
these side, where there were 2 rooms.
One of the rooms which opened on the road
side had lovely windows and wooden cupboards embedded in the walls of the
house.
The
family who lived their now had purchased this house from Nanaji`s family in
1990. Apparently this house was rumored to have had the ghost of jayanti kaka,
nanaji`s cousin brother.The family said they were very happy with the
house and they never meet any ghost:
Auto
ride
Our next
halt was going to Vakharna Pada where my Nani`s father`s house was. It also had
houses of other relatives. As the distance was a bit far, we had to take
an auto. We were five of us in one auto. This was great experience travelling
on the front seat of the auto. We visited few of the old temples, one of which
was built by Dadi`s grandfather.
Nani`s
house:
My Nani`s
house was at the left hand side entrance of vakharana pada. Nani`s
brother had rebuilt the house many years back, so there was nothing old or
ancient about this place.
My Nani
had quite a tragic child hood. Her mother died very young of a stomach
ulcer in Bombay leaving back 5 children with her youngest sister only 2.5 years
old. She was only 14, being the eldest sister she had to take on the
responsibility of taking care of her younger siblings. Her father then
a trader of flours, having a shop at nal bazzar, Bombay was perhaps so
shattered, that he developed severe Aasthma. Doctors though that the
Patan air may suit him better, so my Nani left her school at 4th
standard and came to Patan, to look after the father and the siblings.
Unfortunately her father didn`t live too long he passed away within a year.
The house as my Nani describes it was quite nice. It has lovely red
titles, a floor on the top with 1 room and 2 rooms downstairs. Her mother`s
widow sister helped raise the other children. After 3 years, when Nani
was 18 she got married to Nanaji and started her new life in Kishore Bhuvan,
Mumbai. She was determined to study, so she would go to school from 1-6pm every
day and somehow managed to complete 10th.
Other
houses in Vakharana Pada
In
vakharana pada, in a tiny lane was the house of Dadi`s nanaji. It
was a tiny house with just one floor. Last we went and visited Praveena
ben and Shantibai an elderly couple, they were related to us and have been
living in Patan for years. My father was good friends with them, perhaps coz
they too were great connoisseurs of art and my dad would make many trips to
Gujarat as a youngster to purchase handicrafts over the weekend and sell in
Bombay. They too lived in a house which was rebuilt. But my aunt had described
their old house to me and what was most fascinating of that house was a small
opening in the basement, where one could hide.
Patan na
Patola-
The newly
designed Patola museum of Patan is a recent development. The Salvi family
originated from Maharashtra and were perhaps the first of the lot to make any
kind of cloth. The Salvi jain community about 1000 families migrated to
Patan during the role of the siddpur king and were in this Patola
weaving business. Now only 3-4 families are left. The museum display`s ikkhat,
patola art from different parts of the world, and patolas of patan. The weaving
of this patola requires distinct skill and a lot of patience. It takes at least
9 months to make one saree. The beautiful sarees cost around Rs. 1.9lacs.
At this stage of life, I can perhaps not afford to buy a patalo saree, but I do
buy a few cards with the patola design
Ranki Vau
& Shastraling talav- Ranki Vav and Shastraling talav are a part of world heritage
sites. When I had been here 15 years ago, with my dad. It had
lied in the ruins than. But Gujrat tourism, seems to have taken some good steps
towards developing this place, with lovely green gardens in both the locations.
Apart from the locals who come here for an evening outing, you will see a lot
of foreign tourists too,
Famous
foods of Patan
Patan is
famous for his potato chip chevda, penda and salam pak.